Question
I need some advice about using RAW capture mode. I have just started shooting in RAW mode but after some research on the Internet, I still have some questions about RAW. Why won’t Photoshop CS3 or Elements 7 open and convert the RAW files from my EOS T1i? Also, when using the Canon DPP software, should I save the photos to an 8-bit Tif or a 16-bit Tif. L.V.
Answer
The software that’s bundled with any DSLR certainly supports the unique RAW format produced by that camera. However, versions of Photoshop that are older than CS4 – such as CS3 – do not support the newer cameras’ formats.
That’s because Adobe ceased supporting the older versions. Both Elements 6 and 7 do support the RAW files produced by most of the recent cameras, including the T1i. Anyone who cannot open a RAW file with Elements 6 or 7 will need to download and install the Adobe Camera Raw plug-in version 5.5. See Adobe for the download and for installation instructions. (Photoshop CS4 owners should note that they may also need version 5.5 or later.)
The default with any RAW converter is 8-bit per channel color depth when converting to the TIFF format from a RAW file. Most converter programs also allow you to select 16-bit TIFF. A 16-bit image contains substantially more colour and tonal values: over 4000 intensity levels vs. 256 levels for each pixel. That allows for making more significant changes to an image without posterization: a loss of smooth gradations in tone and color.
On the other hand, stick to 8-bit TIFF unless your image editing software provides a great deal of compatibility with a 16-bit file, such as Lightroom, Aperture 2.2, Photoshop CS3 and CS4.
After your 16-bit file looks perfect – and will need no further adjustments – convert it to 8-bit. (With CS3, you can do so with this command: Image > Mode > select 8-bits/Channel.)
I recommend this step because 16-bit files are huge: twice the size of 8-bit files. Unless you have vast amounts of storage space in your computer (or an external hard drive), you’ll prefer to store the much smaller 8-bit TIFF photos.
You should also print from an 8-bit TIFF. While some software (such as Aperture 2.2) allows for printing from a 16-bit file, Adobe products do not. Even if they did, there is really no great value in printing from the 16-bit TIFF; this is another reason why you may want to save only 8-bit files.
mike
11 Dec 2009At least some Adobe products do print from 16 bit TIFF files, so there’s no need to convert to 8 bit file before printing. Photoshop CS3 on a PC definitely does!
Steve
11 Dec 2009I ran into the camera raw conversion for Photoshop CS2 when I bought a Nikon D90. My solution, the Adobe recommended one, was to download the Adobe DNG converter. As near as I can tell, it preserves all the advantages of RAW files with a file size less than TIFF. The only problem is you end up with two copies of the file.
PeterKBurian
12 Dec 2009Mike: yes, it may be possible depending on the software and computer platform, but there’s no real value to doing so. AND you must have a printer that can print from 16-bit files …. only a few printers can do so. Peter
Here’s some info from Tim Grey, Nov. 2 AND Nov. 11, newsletter ….The Ask Tim Grey eNewsletter is free. Details on becoming a member can be found here: http://www.timgrey.com/asktimgrey/
PRINTING: For all practical purposes, the real world difference between 8-bit per channel and 16-bit per channel printing is non-existent. You simply can’t see a difference between the two prints. **The option to print 16-bit data is only available with a handful of printers***, using either Photoshop CS4 or Lightroom 2, and only on the Macintosh platform (for now). The benefit is incredibly minimal, and in most cases you would not be able to see any
difference.
The benefit would really only be in very smooth gradations, which can be maintained better with 16-bit printing (you’ll likely see slightly more banding in those gradations with 8-bit printing).
If you’re working with a 16-bit per channel workflow (which I do highly recommend) and you happen to have a printer and the necessary software configuration to enable 16-bit per channel printing, I would certainly enable it just to provide every possible advantage in terms of print quality.
But I certainly wouldn’t buy a new printer, switch platforms, or buy new software for the sole purpose of enabling 16-bit printing, because there simply isn’t a significant benefit. Most people would never know the difference with most images.
………. 16-bit per channel mode ……………… Upon export you would need to decide whether it was necessary to have the images in 16-bit per channel mode. If you are exporting the images for purposes of creating some form of output (printed or online display, for
example), there’s no need to export the images in 16-bit per channel mode.
If you’ll be making further adjustments to the images using Photoshop or another
tool, then I recommend exporting as 16-bit per channel.
The bottom line is that 16-bit per channel can offer a benefit in terms of quality for your images, and I highly encourage its use. Just keep in mind that just because 16-bit per channel is certainly helpful when optimizing your images doesn’t mean it will be helpful at later stages of your workflow.
Become a Member The Ask Tim Grey eNewsletter is free Details on becoming a member can be found here: http://www.timgrey.com/asktimgrey/
PeterKBurian
12 Dec 2009Steve: I have not used DNG converter.
Does that allow for converting any RAW file to DNG? Even if CS2 does not support that camera’s RAW format?
Or do I misunderstand what DNG converter does? Peter http://www.peterkburian.com
Ingeborg Minecci
11 Feb 2010Awesome article I just like it, Keep adding more Photoshop Tutorials like this!
Peter K. Burian
12 Feb 2010Thanks for your kind note, Ingeborg. I don’t write about Photoshop usually but this topic is quite important.
Peter